Coq au Vin

Pearl Onions

I love cooking with wine.  Although I do enjoy a dry white splashed into a pan of caramelized shallots for deglazing, or marsala stirred into a mixture of sauteed mushrooms and garlic before a bit of cream is added, I most enjoy meat or poultry braised slowly in red wine over the course of a Sunday afternoon.  Anticipation builds as a heavenly aroma fills the house making us all a bit anxious for dinner time to arrive to see whether the finished product lives up to its promise.

Sometimes, I’m a fairly hard sell.  It isn’t so much that the most recent recipe I’ve experimented with isn’t good;  they very nearly always are.  But think about it.  Once you’ve had an amazing version of something you truly enjoy, it’s challenging for anything else to replicate the wonder of that first bite.

Mention Coq au Vin and someone will ask about what the special occasion might be.  When you consider that any braise is done because the meat used is not an expensive cut, and needs to cook for a long time to make it tender, you know it isn’t necessarily a fancy dish.  In the case of Coq au Vin,  traditionally, the farmer’s old rooster became the dinner.  Bacon, mushrooms, onions, and a liberal quantity of red wine made for quite the send off for that old rooster, and a savory treat for the farmer after a hard day’s work.  All things considered, Coq au Vin is a one pot dish.

I’ve had my eye on a recipe for Coq au Vin I first saw in Saveur. The only reason I haven’t made it before now is that it required marinating the chicken overnight and sometimes my lack of planning gets the best of me.  That oversight hasn’t kept me from making Coq au Vin because I just choose a different version.  Unfortunately, that hasn’t solved the problem.  I’ve wondered about how the marinade might change the complexity of the flavors and whether this particular recipe might be the one to best all of the others.

Evidently, I’m not the only one. It just so happens that it’s the source of the next recipe I’d like to try for Coq au Vin.  Might it be the one?  I’d have to actually find a rooster that doesn’t have his feathers on to get started…and deal with his kidneys.

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Mustard Rosemary Rubbed Prime Rib with Bordelaise Sauce

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Mustard Rosemary Rubbed Prime Rib with Bordelaise Sauce

I’ve been going through the most recent of the more than 10,000 photos in my iPhoto library trying to rid my Mac of its burden.  Yes, I have an external hard drive and do believe there are actually media files backed up there, but I haven’t checked lately.  Instead, I’ve been going through old recipe shots and either deleting those less memorable, or flagging others as potentially postable sometime before the turn of the next century.

Going through them reminds me somewhat of going out for a brisk three or four mile walk and then coming home to indulge myself with some neglected baked morsel neither my husband or son was willing to eat, so therefore, the duty is relegated to me.  Minus a few hundred calories on the walk — plus about a thousand if I’m lucky stuffing that morsel in my mouth.  I shoot and upload photos faster than I can delete them.

So what is this really about you ask?

It’s about that demi-glace I made. You remember, right?  I froze all those cute little containers of it for future use.  Perhaps you have nothing more interesting in your life than to wonder, “What in hell will that woman do with all that demi-glace?”  Well, maybe not, but I am able to say that I have sampled two recipes with the demi-glace so far and have experimented with a third.

The results are interesting, and I’m still not sure if it’s because of the high brown I inadvertently achieved on the vegetables in the initial phases of the demi-glace production, or whether it’s the recipes I’ve chosen.  Regardless, I owe you a report of my progress thus far.

I began with Bordelaise Sauce to accompany a beef rib roast, and if I remember correctly, it was to celebrate Valentine’s Day with my mother who happens to have found the love of her life at age 71.  Evidently, it is never too late.

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Demi-glace: A Mother of a Sauce

At some point when you've got as much time as I do on your hands, you get around to cooking something that caught your eye years ago when time was quite the precious commodity.  But years have gone by since then and time does a good job of layering all the possibilities life tosses in our path, so the urge was buried until I saw the December issue of Saveur last year showcasing traditional meat sauces such as charcutiere and bordelaise — sauces I've made before, but with purchased demi-glace.

There was no reason not to try the demi-glace recipe since time seemed to be the biggest requirement, and it wasn't even focused time.  Thankfully.  How hard could it be to roast a few pounds of bones and then simmer them for a few hours?

Twenty hours, to be exact, and that's just the simmering time.

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It's not often that I see meat bones in the case at the grocery store, so when I saw a couple of packages, I tossed them in the cart wondering just how many I'd need to make my own demi-glace.  A second glance at the article after I got home informed me I'd need about ten, so I put the bones in the freezer knowing it may be a while before I saw more.

You're thinking I should have gone to the butcher, right?  Yes, I believe I know where one is thanks to a very good friend who purchases lovely cuts of meat there for special occasions.  I still haven't been there myself, however, so the idea of actually picking up the telephone to call and inquire about whether they'd have some bones for me at some point in the foreseeable future appeared far more organized than my serendipitous self seems to be these days.

It's a very sad state of affairs.

But I did happen on a few more packages of beef bones in the next few weeks, so decided that I'd give the recipe a go.

Although there seems to be a bit of variation on how one goes about making demi-glace, essentially, it's made from roasting bones with a small amount of vegetable and tomato, then slowly simmering the bones in a good quantity of water for hours before straining, then reducing.  Some versions require a Sauce Espagnole to be made first, which requires a thickener such as flour, and then that sauce blended with beef stock before reducing.

In consulting Mastering the Art of French Cooking by Julia Child, there is no simple recipe for demi-glace.  Instead, here is what can be found:

"The classical French brown sauce starts out with a long-simmered brown meat stock that goes into the making of an equally long-simmered, lightly thickened sauce base called an espagnole.  The espagnole is simmered and skimmed for several hours more with additional stock and flavorings until it finally develops into the traditional mother of the brown sauces, demi-glace. But as we are concerned with less formal cooking, we shall discuss it no further." (pg. 66, Vol. I)

Evidently, to some, however,the addition of the thickener is sacriledge and far be it from me to sway from a purist perspective on this.  Besides, making an espagnole first would require additional ingredients and steps — not something I was interested in. No, I'll save that one for another time.

To make the Saveur recipe, I'd need:

  • a very large roasting pan;
  • a very large stock pot;
  • a chinois; and/or
  • a fine meshed strainer.

And I'd need to not mind the scent of roasting beef permeating my house for two days.

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Green Beans and Chantrelles with Fried Onions

Home Fried Onion Rings
Green beans go way back in my family.  And when I think of them, it's usually not the crispy sauteed with garlic and a few shallots way I routinely fix them now, but something that's a meal in itself:  A big pot of fresh green beans with quartered, unpeeled potatoes, and lots of onions, sauteed in bacon fat, and then stewed slowly until the mixture is somewhere between a soup and a stew. We ate it for dinner, and I can imagine that it most likely was light on my mom's wallet.  It wasn't a favorite, but I wasn't allowed to mention that part because it was food.

I have found a happy medium for dinner now, occasionally.  Especially during the holidays when someone expects "Green Bean Casserole."  You know the casserole I'm talking about, right?  The one developed by the Campbell Soup company in the 1950's  and made with Durkee's fried onions?  Yes, that recipe.

Because my family never ate green beans in a casserole, and we'd never have had our version of beans at a special dinner, I'd never tried green bean casserole until I was well into my adult years.  And when it was my turn to make it for a holiday meal, I did what I normally do — alter the recipe. 

It had to be better if it was made with fresh green beans that still had a hint of crunch to them, didn't it?  And the creaminess had to be able to come from something other than a soup can.  Don't get me wrong.  If you've spent any amount of time reading here, then you know that I was raised eating very simple, wholesome food.  So, I played around with a fresh mushroom saute with caramelized onions, rehydrated mushrooms and used the broth, made a white sauce, added some garlic, but never quite got the flavors to blend well.  It always tasted like greenbeans with sauce on them.

A year ago, I saw a recipe in Saveur that I had to try.  The only problem with it was that I'd have to make crispy fried onions and couldn't imagine doing that on a busy holiday cooking day.  Who comes up with these ideas?  Clearly, someone who doesn't have responsibility for an entire meal.  The only problem is, even though I prepped everything the way the recipe read, I sort of forgot to think about the whole onion frying thing.  Oops.

Since then I've tried the recipe quite a few ways — fried onions and no fried onions, and have found the flavors so nice, that a few shallots works just fine when you're too busy to mess with deep frying.

This year, since we're seriously out of commission due to construction, I'm in charge of green beans for Thanksgiving dinner — and a bunch of other non-turkey items.  I'm going to fry the onions at home first, and store them in an airtight container to assemble the dish after the drive to my sister-in-law's house right before baking time.  I'll have to let you know how it goes since I am anything but the Queen of the Deep Fry.

Have green been casserole, will travel.  Green Bean "Casserole" with Chantrelles

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Buttery Garlic Knots with Rosemary…and Girth

 Img_1209_4If anyone had told me even two years ago that I’d have a group of friends I baked with, I’d have considered that it was possible, because I do have a group of friends I cook dinner with on a regular basis.  But if I’d been told the baking friends lived thousands of miles away, some in countries outside the U.S., and that when we baked we questioned and deliberated about all things "culinary" such as:

  • wild yeast
  • electrician’s tape for bits and parts
  • proofing temps
  • girth
  • green & black garlic
  • who’s that soccer player?  Beckham?
  • kitchen humidity levels
  • anatomically shaped knots
  • tassles
  • starters
  • celebrities
  • Star Wars
  • packages; and
  • boy toys…Ahem…

Where was I?  Oh, yes, and that all this "talk" happened in day long chats by instant messaging on Skype, I would have said, absolutely no way!

But it’s a complete riot and absolutely so educational.  Of course, it’d be a lot more fun if most of my fellow "bakeanistas" weren’t in another time zone.  It’s a bit of a challenge to drag my sorry self out of bed on a weekend morning at 7:00 when I’m sorely in need of my beauty rest, but I wouldn’t miss it for the world.  Nope.  Just the thought of being able to spend a day in my kitchen in front of my iMac (like that’s unusual?..) with my jammies on and no worry about make-up or eyebrows or brushing my hair is sheer heaven. You know, when the rest of the sane world is out enjoying time at the park, or the beach, or taking care of gardening.  Yes, like that.  And who knows whether our keyboards will ever be the same, but some are experimenting with SaranWrap coverings.  Snorting coffee through one’s nose could damage them.

The nice thing about these cyber baking chat sessions is that they remind me of what it’s like to see a neighbor outside her house and yell over to her that you’ve got a fresh pot of coffee on.  Feh.  Or a mimosa.  Time zones, remember?  And because she has a friend on the way over, who was going to meet up with her neighbor, and they were getting ready to go out with two friends….You get it, right?  Except that doesn’t happen in my real neighborhood.

Hence, bakeanistas.  With two dudes added for good measure.  They bake, okay?

From one session to the next, there’s no telling who will join in because it’s impromptu.  And sometimes, people are busy, so they just pull up a chair and chat.  They decide not to bake.  But as each in the group proceeds through the recipe or its variations (because we like to mess around with it) photos of our little baked yummies start flying back and forth so we can oooh and ahhhh one another’s accomplishment. 

Or not.  Sometimes, things don’t always go the way we’d like.  It’s a bit challenging gossiping and trying to bake and type all at the same time so there’s bound to be a problem.  Yeast doesn’t exactly stop working when you’ve got errands to run, right? 

Thankfully, this dough is very forgiving — as in after you’ve throw it across the room to get it off your hands because it’s so sticky. Just kidding.

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Buttery Garlic Knots with Rosemary

for the dough…
1 c. whole milk
3/4 c. unsalted butter cut into pieces
1/2 c. warm water (105 degrees F)
1 tsp. plus 1/2 c. sugar, divided
1 envelope plus 1/2 tsp dry active yeast
3 lg. eggs, room temp
5-1/4 c. all-purpose flour
2-1/2 tsp. salt
1 T melted butter

for the filling/topping…
5/8 oz. garlic (3 lg. cloves)
2 T extra virgin olive oil
2 T butter, melted
1-1/2 T fresh rosemary, finely chopped
1/4 tsp. sea salt

In a medium pan over low heat, warm milk adn 3/4 c. of butter until it melts.  Stir occasionally to prevent milk from burning.  Let cool to 120 degrees F.

Combine warm water, 1 tsp. sugar, and yeast in a small bowl and slet stand for 5 minutes until it softens and begins to puff.

In the bowl of a standing mixer using the whisk attachment, beat the eggs and remaining sugar at low speed until blended.  Beat in the milk mixture.  Gradually add 2-1/2 c. of the flour, 1/2 c. at a time until blended smooth.  Replace the whisk with the dough hook.  Add the yeast mixture, salt, and 2 cups of flour, 1/2 c. at a time, and beat at medium low speed (2 on the KA mixer).  You will have a very wet and loose dough that climbs the dough hook but falls back down into the bowl by this time. 

One tablespoon at a time, add enough flour to form a firm but sticky dough ball.  The dough ball will pull away from the sides of the bowl and not flop back to the sides.  It will feel like "fly paper" when you touch it.

Pour 1 T melted butter in a large bowl (4 qt.) that can be fitted with a lid or plastic cling wrap.  On a very lightly flour dusted counter, and with lightly floured hands, turn the dough out and give it 3-5 quick hand kneads to form a good dough ball.  Then put it in the buttered bowl, turning it over to coat evenly.  Cover the bowl tightly, and let rise in a warm, draft-free place until doubled, about 1-1/2 hours.

Punch down the dough, fold it over in half, then in half again, and brush with melted butter.  Cover the bowl again and let rise again in the same warm, draft-free place until double, about 1 hour.

About 10 minutes before the last rise, in a large skillet, melt 2 T butter with 2 T extra virgin olive oil over medium heat.  Add the garlic and stir until fragrant but not brown, about 2 minutes.  Add the fresh rosemary and sea salt, mix well and scrape into a bowl.  Set aside.

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When the last rise is done, you’re ready to shape the rolls, turn the dough out onto a lightly floured work space and cut it into 16 even pieces.  Working with one piece of dough at a time, roll into a rope about 11-inches long and flatten it.  Spoon about 1/4 tsp. of the garlic rosemary mixture along its length, then fold lengthwise and press the edges together.  Twist lenthwise, then shape into a knot of your choosing.  As you finish, place each on a parchment or silicone lined baking sheet and cover with plastic wrap.  Then let rise for about 45 minutes to an hour, until puffed.
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Before the end of this last rise, preheat oven to 350 degrees F.

Bake the knots for about 15 minutes, until golden.  Remove from oven and brush with remaining garlic rosemary mixture or use to dip.

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Notes:  This recipe is an adaptation of an adaptation of an adaptation….you understand, yes?

  • The original recipe — or at least ONE of the original recipes is from the King Arthur Flour site and can be found here.  A toadally luscious recipe.  But then Lis had an idea…
  • The adaptation I used was from Bon Appetit, or was it Saveur? I’m not sure, because Breadchick found it.  But I think it can be found here.
  • I made the adjustments to include the flattened, ropes twisted with olive oil, garlic, butter and rosemary, which are favorites.  If I was stuck on a desert island, I’d have to have both.
  • When mixing the dough, and right at the end adding flour "one tablespoon at a time…?"  Well I added 14 of those tablespoons to get my dough to the point where I could remove it from the mixing bowl and give it a few shoves before slapping it in that buttahed bowl for it’s first rise.  And it takes patience to do that, lovingly watching the side of that bowl to see what that dough is inclined to do.  Because bread dough has personality, and you just never know.  Patience is not something I understand.  Ever.  And if it looks like I do, it’s because I’m faking it.
  • In discussion, a few of my beloved bakeanista friends thought that cutting back on the sugar by half would be good.  The knots aren’t too sweet, but taste tests performed by the victims in my house agreed that maybe a bit less sugar would be nice.  I wasn’t too sure, however, because their mouths were full of garlicy, buttery goodness.
  • I made 16 knots:  8 with the garlic rosemary mixture baked inside the dough as described above, and 8 with just the mixture brushed over the baked knots.
  • Everyone agreed that putting the garlic mixture inside the knots AND brushing it over the top was the best way to collapse with a full stomach, a smile on your face and garlic on your breath.

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Now don’t forget to check out the other bakeanistas to see what they’ve created — Especially Mary of The Sourdough.  This session was all her heavenly garlicy idea.  And then there’s Helen, Lis, John,  , Chris, Sara, Marce,& Tanna.

We were missing a few of our bakeanista buddies this time:  Ben, LauraIvonne, and Stephanie, but I’m sure they’ll join in next time.  And I’m never sure just when "next time" is with this group of oven loving,  instant-messaging maniacs.  But I’ll guarantee that whenever it is, I’ll be there…

…with my girth belted in.

Oh.  My.

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Grilled Pork Kebabs with Cucumber-Mint Yogurt Sauce

Although I’m a fairly exploratory cook, rarely hesitating to try something new and different, I understand that this is a very relative thing, with some considering leaving the pieces of chopped onion in their marinara a bold step.  That would not be what I’m referring to.  I would also not have in mind the liver my mother used to put on our plates — fried in bacon fat and onions, dry and mealy textured.  To eat and enjoy that ever would require bravery beyond the call of a foodie’s duty, and a persistent fear that one’s palate would be forever ruined by its presence in one’s mouth.

But I digress.

I’d say that at this point in my life, Saveur is deserving of some of my tastebuds’ wanderlust, each month setting food in front of my eyes I may have not known of before.  And although I have to admit it will take quite a bit more — well, guts –  to try all the cuisines I’ve read about in the years I’ve enjoyed Saveur, I do try two to three recipes each month. 

As odd as it may seem last month, with "American Crab" plastered across the front of Issue Number 111, it was the article, "Bold Flavors, Ancient Roots," that captured my attention over and over again.  Perhaps it was the dark, richly colored fava bean stew — something I knew I wanted to try.  Or maybe it was just another temptation to wallow in yet another area of the Mediterranean, something I’ll always enjoy.

The best four years of my childhood were spent in the south of Spain.  And although Spanish cuisine is quite different from that of other countries surrounding the Mediterranean, I will always be drawn to anything that comes from that region.

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One of the recipes featured in the article on Cyprus is Souvlakia Hirina or "Pork Kebabs with Cucumber-Mint Yogurt Sauce."  It caught my eye because I continue wonder about savory dishes laced with not only oregano and thyme, but cumin, and cinnamon.  At one point, cinnamon in any dish containing meat isn’t something I’d spend time wondering about, dismissing it as something that belonged in baked goods.  But I’ve learned that there’s very little I don’t like to eat, as long as the flavors push my thinking about what constitutes great flavor.

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For a change, I made the recipe exactly as written.  Scary, don’t you think?  But quite tasty — and perfect for the barbeque…

Notes:  Okay, so I lied.  We put this on the grill instead of under the broiler.  It seemed like a no brainer and it paid off.  The meat did turn a bit red from the wine, but that doesn’t interfere with good flavor.  The cinnamon was definitely noticeable, but subtle, and very nice in the combination of spices.  The cucumber yogurt sauce was interesting.  I’m used to dill being in yogurt sauces, and so it took a bit of getting used to.  The recipe makes quite a bit, so unless you’re one to really pile on sauces, I’d cut the recipe in half.

This would be a terrific starter, grilled on smaller skewers, or sauteed, then each piece pierced with a pick ready to dip.  Don’t forget to buy or make some pita bread.  It’s terrific that way.

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The salad is just another one of my impromptu dinner salads.  Roast the fresh corn either on or off the cob.  You can do this on the grill, then scrape it off, or scrape it first into a dry skillet until caramelized.  Choose whatever greens you enjoy and add them to your salad bowl.  Par boil green beans, then a soak in cold water to stop the cooking.  Add them to the greens.  You can also either grill or saute the greenbeans after the parboil, but make sure not to overcook them.  They need to have a bit of a crunch.  Add chunks of fresh tomato, chopped green onions, the corn, and sprinkle on some fresh feta.  The dressing is my usual extra virgin olive oil and lime with salt and pepper. 

Not exactly Mediterranean inspired, but healthy, right?