Meyer Lemon and Blackberry Chiffon Pie

In the months before my youngest was born, my mother suggested to my husband and I that she live with us to care for the baby after I returned to work.  We’d been looking for a larger house since my two older boys were on the verge of their teen years, and adding a third child meant room to stretch would be important for us all.  She knew I wasn’t looking forward to leaving the baby with a caregiver, and was growing tired of her own job, the hours it required, and the physical pain it caused her.  My husband is a far more easy going person than I could ever be, so he agreed and we changed the focus of our search to a home with four or five bedrooms instead of three.

We happened on to the perfect house one day by misreading the directions I’d written down.  An open house was just concluding and the realtors were preparing to leave.  We thought it looked perfect from the outside, but as soon as we entered — all heading in different directions — we were convinced.  It had only one owner in its 40 year history and was unique in so many ways.  Tucked into a hillside on a half acre shaped like a slice of pie, it faced east and overlooked the mature trees in the valley.  The back property hadn’t been cared for in years, but was a wealth of possibilities;  apricot, plum, tangerine, orange, grapefruit, loquat, and nut trees filled the space. It was perfect.

The year we moved in, the winter rains were especially heavy.  Slowly, the parched hillside turned green and bulbs planted years before began to push through layers of fallen leaves.  Sprigs of grape vines and berry bushes also appeared.  Saturday mornings before sunrise, the baby would wake earlier than I wanted, but it allowed us both some time alone.  With a bottle in his hands and coffee in one of mine, we’d walk up the hill in the early quiet of the day to see what new surprise we might find, finally growing after so many years of neglect. I loved that house.

Our trees often produced more than we could enjoy, so after freezer jam had been made, berries frozen, juice made, and sweets baked, we’d pack it up and set it down by the street with a “Free” sign.  It rarely took long for passers by to stop and help themselves to the produce, emptying the buckets we’d carry back up the hill to fill again.

Now, I have to depend on the market for most of what we used to give away, but I have learned recently of many organizations involved in gleaning urban fruit for a variety of purposes.  Whether it’s to gather and donate to those in need, or pluck and enjoy to keep it from rotting on the ground, interest in urban fruit foraging is gathering momentum as we all begin to think more responsibly about food.

I was gifted a big bag of Meyer lemons not too long ago, so had to pair them with the blackberries showing up at the market.  The berries will never compare with those we picked on our hill, but until I find them growing wild in San Diego, I’ll have to be tolerant — or do without.

But then, there is this pie…

76/365:  Blackberries

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Waldorf Salad sans Mayo

Not your basic waldorf. We’ve been eating quite a bit of soup and salad lately.  With the business of our lives, it often seems to be the only way to make sure we don’t fall into the take-out habit, or worse, microwaved frozen food.  Call me a food snob — or better yet, consider that it’s not challenging to make a healthy meal that doesn’t take a lot of time and goes easy on the wallet.

Picture this:  my husband and I pass through the house each morning getting ready for work and I begin to think about any excuse not to have to stop at the market on the way home.  I mull over the contents of the veggie bin while I’m brushing my teeth, and search my fuzzy memory for ingredients  that may be languishing in the pantry.

“There are carrots I could make some soup with,” I begin staring into my mirror.

“That would be good,” he mutters, peering into his mirror,  busy with his own routine.

“And there are those apples you forget to eat on a regular basis.  I saw a recipe for a salad I want to try — but I’m not quite sure what condition the celery is in.  Do we have lemons?”  I call from the closet as I’m trying to figure out what to squeeze myself into for the day.

“Anything you make will be good,” he says from his side of the closet, “and I have been eating an apple a day.”

I head down the stairs, give a quick look in the fridge, and grab my coffee before running out the door and calling my goodbyes feigning success in the accomplishment of a dinner plan.

Jump ahead 11 hours.  It’s about 6PM and we’re both home.  Our son has come downstairs to graciously share himself with us, then flops on the couch to figure out what we’ll watch that evening.  My husband and I start peeling and chopping, sauteeing and blending.  On most days within an hour of arriving home — give or take a half hour for diversions — we’re all in the family room  talking about the day, slurping soup, eating salad and enjoying a DVRd show one of us has lobbied for.

On one such night, we tried a new spin on an old classic:  Waldorf Salad.  When I think of why I’ve never liked it, the mayonnaise would be the reason.  As much as I enjoy most salads, slathering a fatty dressing on one has never appealed to me.  If you’re like me or at least interested in something seasonal, but more healthy, try this.  It will be a part of our Thanksgiving dinner this year.

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A Pavlova for Tartelette

White TulipsSome of you may know that I was asked to do a guest post for Tartelette.    You know, The Tartelette?

Yes.  I know.

Of course I had a few moments of the puffy ego syndrome after an initial self-indulgent happy dance before I snapped out of it and began to fret about what to make.  Ohhhhhh, the sweet agony of making this particular decision.  I’m a meat and veggie type of person, comfortable with trying a bit of this and a bit of that.  I have a fondness for salad and greens, and a little addiction for the perfect muffin.  But making something special that would look like it belonged up front and center on Tartelette’s site?

Well.  You have no idea the fuss I made over this.  You’d have thought the Queen of England was coming to dinner.  Seriously.  But I had so much fun.  Far more fun than I’d have had if I’d needed to choose a little black dress for an event as swanky as that.

I don’t do little black dresses.  Ever.

But I learned quite a bit making A Pavola for Tartelette — or Helen, who is quite the amazing person if you’re fortunate enough to know her.

I hope you take some time to visit her, read my post,  and decide what you think of my Pavlova — definitely more of a tutu than a little black dress if you ask me.

And no, I don’t do tutus, either.  It just might conjure images of dancing hippos instead of ballerinas.

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Ginger Sandwich Cookies with Lemon Cream Filling

Dear Nick Malgieri,

I saw your Ginger Sandwich Cookies filled with lemon cream in a recent issue of Food & Wine magazine and decided I’d give them a try.  Although gingersnaps have never been and will never be a cookie I find myself craving, the lemon filling did catch my attention and I thought that with the ginger, the flavor could be exceptional.

Although that did not disappoint, the molasses, on the other hand, gave me pause because the last time I made cookies that had molasses in them, the results were less than appealing until I bent them into submission after much trial and error.

Now I know I’m far from perfect on most days, but I have had a modest amount of experience cooking and baking with great success — thankfully more times than not.  I also use excellent equipment and so cannot blame poor result on either of those factors.

What I’m left with is a question, and I’m asking it of you since this is your recipe and the photograph chosen to illustrate the intended results looks far different than mine — especially my first batch.Ginglemoncook

  • When baking cookies with molasses, is there something I just don’t understand?  What causes them to spread so?  I know sugar in general causes that, and when using molasses, a smaller quantity is needed, as in this recipe which calls for only 1/4 cup.  Could it be the brand of molasses?  I use Grandma’s which is just about the only kind I’ve ever used, and the jar I used for this batch was opened recently.
  • Although keeping a very close eye on the Ginger Sandwich cookies during the required bake time, I realized I needed to remove them from the oven only half way through the expected 20-minute baking time, and even then, the cookies were far too done.  Actually, burnt.
  • I prefer to use convection settings for everything except for recipes with a high quantity of egg, so am used to reducing the heat and cooking time to compensate for that choice. However, because of the previous results, I chose not to use convection heat for this recipe.  On the second batch, again, with only 7 minutes of the baking time elapsed, I had to remove the cookies.

Mr. Malgieri, I know that often, baking is an adventure, and I accept that most of the time.  Because I’m used to reading recipes, I can usually spot one that I think could be problematic, and with this recipe, the cooking time did get my attention.  Cookies rarely bake that long.  Nevertheless, I proceeded like the trusting home cook I am.

I will say your ginger cookies are lovely tasting with a nice bite — chewy, with a pleasant tartness from the lemon cream which blends well with the overall sweetness.  Very, very nice.  I just wish I’d done them justice.  So I’m curious and would enjoy trying these again, but detest wasting food so need some direction.

Did Food & Wine misprint the recipe?  Or am I just someone who should step away from the molasses?

With the utmost respect,
Kelly

p.s.  They stack pretty good though!

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Sugared Lemon Sandwich Cookies

Gourmet-cookie-logo
Day Seven of our 12 Days of Cookies Extravaganza brings a bit of sunshine on a day that surprisingly isn't, which makes it a very pleasant day to be baking.  I'd like to say that Bing is crooning holiday songs on the Bose and there's a fire crackling in the family room, but I'll have to wait at least a week for that.

My 16-year-old chose these delicately lemon-flavored "glittering" cookies from the stack I'd bookmarked because he thought they'd be a nice change from the others I've been making. At first, I wasn't thrilled because citrus-flavored baked goods make me think of Spring or Summer, but I'm glad I listened to him, because these are quite the lovely treat. 

One of Gourmet's Favorite Cookies from December of 2008, I'd say this is the best recipe I've tried so far.  They aren't fussy to make even though they appear to be headed for a bridal shower or elegant afternoon tea.  In one or two bites, you're treated to an exterior crunch of sugar, a flaky cookie, and a light butter cream that only hints of lemon.

Absolutely perfect.  IMG_7703

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Roast Lemon Chicken with Garlic & Olives

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I don’t really know how to truss a chicken.  At most, if I’ve attempted to do so, it has only been when I’ve stuffed the chicken and so I half-heartedly wrap cotton string around the legs a few times to keep things in. 

Any number of resources are available that will explain why I should truss my chicken, how said trussing will affect the final product, and of course, show me how to truss effectively.  To be honest, this whole subject must have been determined by destiny. 

Some people are destined to be famous and make millions, or influence hoards of willing subjects thereby changing the direction of humanity for the better.  I am destined to be someone influenced by clever and charming Foodie I happened onto a few days ago after I’d already made the decision to thaw the eight-dollar non-organic, mass produced big box grocery-store-bought Foster Farms roaster in my freezer and had some semblance of a recipe in mind.  I wasn’t looking for a lesson on trussing, but I got one anyway.  And  must have been a good lesson, because I’d read Thomas Keller’s viewpoint on the importance of trussing not too long ago, but wasn’t compelled to give it a go.  Of course, I didn’t have a chicken in my sink at the time.  Waiting.  Img_3104
So thanks, Matt of Wrightfood.  I enjoyed the video and your blog.

I’m not sure I was perfectly successful at the trussing (you’re not supposed to have a big "X" across the most delicate part of the chicken…), but I enjoyed myself, and will be looking into this business of trussing, adding it to the mental list of things I should do, but don’t, and then chide myself over mercilessly.  Our roast chicken was, however, very moist and flavorful with little or no effort.

There are quite a few variations on Chicken with Olives that I’ve come across, so I can say that they’ve all influenced my version one way or another — without the trussing.

Roast Lemon Chicken with Garlic & Olives

1 whole chicken with innards removed from the cavity
zest of one lemon
juice of one lemon
3 T extra virgin olive oil
1/3 c. rosemary, parsley, & thyme
2 heads of garlic, cloves separated and peeled
3/4 c. chicken broth
1/2 c. cerignola olives (large green), seeded
salt & pepper

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Preheat the oven to 425 degrees F.

Zest the lemon completely.  Then juice it and quarter it.

In a small bowl, mix lemon zest, lemon juice, olive oil and herbs.  Set aside.

Pat the chicken dry after rinsing it — inside as well.  Liberally sprinkle inside and out with salt and cracked pepper.  Sprinkle some of the herb mixture into the cavity, then add the lemon pieces. 

Truss the chicken, and according to this source, "you’ll have a better looking bird."

Place the chicken in a small roaster or cast iron skillet and sprinkle the remainder of the herb mixture over it, patting it into the skin.

Sprinkle the garlic cloves around the chicken.

Roast the chicken for 18-20 min. per pound and check for doneness by piercing a thigh and looking for opaque meat and clear juice or use an instant read thermometer inserted in the thigh that reads a USDA recommended 165 degrees F.  About an hour for an average sized bird.

Remove the chicken from the roaster when done and place on a platter, tented with foil.

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Pour the chicken broth into the pan and over medium-high heat stir, scraping up any brown bits in the pan.  Add the olives and cook until they’re warm.

Carve the chicken, and serve, passing the olive sauce.  The taste is one of our very favorites.

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Notes:

Cerignola olives can often be found at the olive bar in many grocery stores.  They’re mild tasting olives, and not as briny as some.  In other words, they don’t make the inside of your cheeks twinge when you eat them.  They have a pleasant fruity taste like, well, good olive oil.  They are usually unseeded, but they’re so big, I cut the cheeks off them just like you would a mango.  It works.  I can’t always find them, so have used other green olives instead  — except "Spanish olives" with pimientos stuffed in them.  I like them, just not for this dish.

You can have fun with different combinations of herbs like cilantro, or oregano, or add some shallots.  Use your imagination and choose what you enjoy. 

If you don’t want to peel all that garlic, purchase it in bulk already peeled.  I sort of like peeling garlic.  It’s soothing.  Go figure.  Of course when I don’t have the time, I smash the garlic, skins and all, with a bench scraper, and the peels come right off.  You’ll just have squashed garlic instead of pretty cloves.

This chicken is excellent with mashed potatoes, quartered and simmered until fork tender with peelings on.  Add some buttermilk and a bit of butter and mash some more, but leave a few chunks.  Season with salt and pepper.

After feeding the three of us, there was enough chicken to have pasta with the sauce for lunch the next day, and club sandwiches for dinner.  You’ll see…

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