Clams with Linguica and Beer

English Beer? It's Friday, and for us that means that dinner is never a serious issue. Good thing, too, since no one has any energy, right?  It means no fuss or muss, but flavor isn't something to sacrifice.  Take out doesn't count on that front, ever, since the whole point of take out for us is flavor with zero fuss or muss.

But clams and take out don't exactly mix– at least not around here.  And ironically, even though we have the Chesapeake Fish Co. harvesting and processing excellent sea food here in San Diego, the retail clams I purchase most often are shipped from the East Coast.  So much for being a locovore.  The tag on the bag I brought home stated that the clams were harvested one day, shipped the next, and they ended up in my kitchen a day and a half later.  

Our passion for clams started with this recipe which I saw in the May 2002 issue of Bon Appetit.  It was featured in an article on Capri and the lemons that grow in that region of Italy, and I had to try it.  Since then, not only have I altered that recipe again and again, but I've tried a number of others like this Spanish version which may be our favorite.

Recently, I decided to experiment with a different recipe — one that included linguica –  a type of Portuguese sausage which is firm, and more similar to Spanish chorizo than regular sausage.  In the case of this latest recipe, the liguica came first, and not the recipe.  That's how it usually works.  I see an ingredient while I'm shopping and put it in my basket knowing I'll come up with something, so it's been sitting patiently in my fridge, waiting for me to figure it out — tempting me each time I open the cheese drawer and making me think, "Jeez! I forgot I had that!  What's the expiration date????"

My latest clam "something" began with an Italian idea influenced by a Spanish recipe, and was supposed to have a New England spin, but the English beer and Portuguese sausage sort of changed everything. 

I'll leave it as "Clams with Linguica and Beer."  There's nothing fancy about this one, but it's perfect for a Friday night at home.  Don't forget the crusty bread.  You'll need it to soak up the broth.  Mmmm…IMG_4879

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Chicken and Morels in Madiera Sauce

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There’s an asset to having two sons who work for Whole Foods.  When something arrives in the produce section that’s unusual, or that other markets here would never stock, I get a phone call.  The last time, the call was to let me know that morels were in.

Sure, I knew that morel season had pretty much drawn to a close so who knows what I’d find, but I didn’t care.  It had been years since I’d made anything with morels, and at that time, they’d been dried — also hard to come by around here.  And although the dried morels were tasty, they left me wondering what fresh morels might taste like. 

I love mushrooms and outside of dessert, there aren’t too many ways I haven’t tried them.  Whenever I see a type of mushroom I’ve not heard of, or haven’t seen in the store before, I will try them.  It never fails that when I get to the check-out, the clerk comments on how expensive they are.  I disagree.

Mushrooms don’t weigh very much, so even if they’re anywhere from $20 to nearly $50 a pound, a quarter of a pound goes a very long way in a lovely sauce.

When I got to Whole Foods, clearly others had been in the same frame of mind as myself, because there weren’t many morels left.  And since I’ve never seen a fresh morel other than from photos, I wasn’t sure about which ones to put in my bag.  Some seemed too dry, and others, too damp.  And the color varied from very dark, to very light with sizes all over the place. 

I was only comfortably able to scrape up about 4 ounces and wanted at least a half pound so also purchased some crimini mushrooms to fill in.  I know, but at least I would finally get to try a fresh morel.

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Chicken and Morels in Madiera Sauce

6 chicken thighs, bone in, skin on
1 T butter
2 T olive oil
4 oz. fresh morels
4 oz. crimini mushrooms
3 T all-purpose flour
1 lg. shallot, chopped, about 1/4 c.
2 cloves fresh garlic, chopped
1/2 c. madiera
3/4 c. hot chicken broth
2 T heavy cream
2 T chopped chives
2 T chopped chervil

In a large skillet, warm the olive oil and butter over medium heat.  Salt and pepper the chicken thighs, then skin side down, fry the chicken thighs until golden brown, about 4-5 minutes on each side.  Remove to a platter.

While the chicken is browning, slice the mushrooms in half or quarters, depending on their size.  Pour flour into a plastic bag, then mushrooms, shaking lightly to coat.  Season lightly with salt and pepper, remove from bag and discard excess flour.

Pour floured mushrooms into the pan chicken was browned in, and saute, stirring occasionally, about 3-4 minutes.

Add the shallots, and garlic, and saute, one minute.  Add the madiera, scraping bits from the bottom of the pan, stirring, about one minute.

Return chicken to the pan with the mushroom mixture and pour in the chicken broth.  Sprinkle on the herbs, cover, and let simmer until the chicken is done, about 25 minutes.

Remove chicken to a serving platter, then scatter mushrooms over the top, reserving the sauce in the pan.  Raise heat, and continue to cook sauce until it thickens slightly.  Add the heavy cream, check seasonings, and pour over the chicken and mushrooms.

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Notes:

  • I was glad I added the crimini mushrooms to this mix because it was interesting to think about the difference in flavor between those and the morels.  The morels had flavor.  The criminis didn’t.  The morels had an almost nutty taste to them, but not one that was sharp, or too strong.  No sweetness, not too much earthiness as some mushrooms can have.  The texture was firm, and though "crunchy" isn’t quite right, I could tell when I bit into one.
  • I’d read that morels could be quite gritty, and so to think about cleaning them, knew that water wouldn’t be the best choice, even though one source said to briefly spray with with cold water.  I decided that a quick dunk in a sieve would be okay, and then shook them to dislodge any sediment.  There was quite a bit in the bottom of the sieve.
  • This is a very quick and easy meal with lots of room for alteration.  Skinless and boneless breasts would be great, and significantly reduce the cooking time.  A mixture of mushrooms that have flavor would be fine if you can’t get morels.  I’m wondering about chantrelles since I rarely see them in the store, either.  They’re my favorite.  But if it’s a less expensive mushroom you’re looking for, then give oyster mushrooms a chance.  They’re pretty strange looking, very irregularly shaped, nearly white in color, and without the caps people usually identify mushrooms with.  A mix, including some dry ones that have been re-hydrated would be very good.  You could use the soaking liquid instead of the chicken broth if you remember to filter out any sediment first.
  • Chervil isn’t an herb I see around here often, so when I see it, I buy it.  It looks like delicate parsley, but has a much more mild, almost sweet taste, than parsley which to me is almost bitter.  Thyme would be lovely in this dish.
  • If you’ve never tried madiera before, this is the dish to try it in.  It’s not expensive, and it’s a perfect thing to keep in your pantry.  It’s perfect with sauteed mushrooms and just about anything.  A dab of cream, or creme fraiche, or even yogurt can really make something plain quite luxurious.

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  And here’s what I’ve learned about morels…

  • Lots of organizations around the world support and enjoy morel "hunts"
  • Morels are often found and collected right as snow begins to recede, especially in areas after fires.  California has lots and lots of fires…
  • Sustained commercial growing efforts haven’t been successful.
  • Morels can also be found growing beneath rotting trees, and in orchards.
  • Other mushrooms can be mistaken for morels, so it’s important to know your mushrooms if you’re the one doing the hunting, or hunt with experts.
  • Morels should never be eaten raw.
  • There are on-line sources for both dried and frozen morels, but I haven’t tried any of them…yet…

Roasted Tomatoes Two Ways

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I love tomatoes.  I always have.  I can remember when I was about eight and my family was living in the small town of Chipiona, Spain, my mother brought home a bunch of tomatoes.  I know they weren’t ours since the patio surrounded by two-story walls that was our backyard then had no garden.  I do remember that we had a strip to plant things in along the drive, but tall sunflowers grew there, while we waited patiently for the seeds to be ready to eat.  Maybe a friend shared their tomatoes with her, or perhaps she thought that the outdoor market had a good price on them that day.

But they must have been irresistible to her, too, because she told us that the very best way to eat tomatoes was to bite into them like one would an apple, and sprinkle on the salt.  So that’s what we did, the juice running down our arms and shirts as we played outside.  Who knows what the locals thought of us wandering about with tomatoes in our hands, surprised to see us eating them — not throwing them.

I don’t eat them like apples any longer, of course, but when they’re especially delicious, slicing them and sprinkling on some extra virgin olive oil and salt is guaranteed — especially when I’m not in the mood or too lazy to make a salad, or a salsa.

My favorite way to eat them now is cooked — either sauteed or roasted.  Other than turning on the oven, or getting out a frying pan, nothing could be easier.  And the flavor after such little effort is so rewarding considering the number of ways you can incorporate them into great dishes like grilled meat or pasta.

But you don’t have to add them to anything.  You can enjoy them with bread and a bit of good cheese, one bite at a time, all by yourself.  If you decide to share them, your friends will ask, “How do you make these?”

Try them either of the following ways, both very, very delicious.  And don’t forget to get every last drop of the pan juices onto your plate.  The first is very similar to the “Pomodori al Forno” published in the September ’08 issue of Bon Appetit and featured by food blogger Molly Wizenberg. The second is adapted from a recipe from the August ’08 issue La Cucina Italiana which showcased a variety of tasty tomato recipes.

Honestly, I think next time, I’ll create a mix of both slicing instead of halving, with lots of garlic and shallots, with the oil somewhere in between the two.  Now, if I actually remember to order San Marzano seeds to plant in pots, that will really be something.

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Chicken Korma: A delicious gift.

I’ve had the pleasure of meeting and working with a lovely young woman whose family is from Afghanistan.  Being the foodie I am, I inquired about the type of food her family enjoys and asked if she could bring a recipe for her favorite dish.  Based on her description, I knew it would be something I’d enjoy as well and couldn’t wait to see what recipe it would be.

A few weeks went by and I teased her with questions about where the recipe might be.  She is a busy college student, very close to finishing her degree, and so had to consult with her mother about my request.  I never once considered what I was really asking for, and am now a bit humbled by the experience.

I’ve mentioned that my mother made certain dishes in her own way, but I have no exact amounts of ingredients to pass along — only the memorized motions from numerous times I watched my mother and then began making dinner for my family myself while growing up.  I began to wonder how I’d feel if someone asked me for such a recipe.  What would I write without actually making it and writing down the steps? 

Early this last week, she handed me a print out of the recipe.  I was immediately excited because I’m hopeless when it comes to trying new recipes, let alone new cuisine.  It’s my favorite thing to do.  Giddy would describe my reaction quite well.  I read through the recipe while she was standing by in case I had questions, and took some notes along the way, mentally planning for when I’d prepare it.

Thursday it was.  Good thing I’d spoken to her, because my version of the "garlic paste" and "ginger paste" listed in the ingredients may not have matched hers.  To me, garlic paste is created when I sprinkle salt on minced garlic and work it through. And "rooster" hot sauce is not something I would have understood had I not asked, but vaguely recalled a very large bottle of hot sauce I’ve seen on the shelves at the grocery store with an image of a rooster on it.  Img_6834_2

Sheepish doesn’t quite describe how I feel right now, knowing
that this dish was most likely prepared and served just to ensure that
the recipe could be written down and given to me.  In spite of my incredible need to apologize for being so bold, I’m now just thankful that I had the opportunity to make this dish.  The entire time I read and chopped, and stirred, and simmered, I thought of family and how good food becomes a story that binds people together. 

What a lovely experience!

I’m going to write this recipe in a different way than I normally do with the original preceding my interpretation which is lighter in color and italicized.  Be careful not to count both in the total amount of ingredients!

Chicken Korma
Time to Cook:  approximately 1 hour.

Ingredients for 5-6
Chicken (combo)
    about 1-3/4 lbs. or 11 chicken drumettes from the wings
2 onions thinly sliced
1 large bell pepper, cut and quartered
    1 red pepper, seeded, and cut into large dice
1 medium potato, cut and quartered
    1 large russet, un-peeled and cut into large dice
2-1/2 T tomato paste
2-1/2 T vegetable oil
3/4 T curry powder
   
approximately 1/2 T curry powder (this is what she cautioned about using too much of and to taste it…)
1/2 T salt
1/2 T pepper
1 c. water

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Materials:
Pot or deep pan

Homemade sauce:  1 batch = 1 jar
Add all ingredients into blender until it has a "smoothie" consistency.

Garlic Paste – 1 batch
    1 entire head of garlic, peeled, about 2 oz.
Ginger Paste – 2-3
    same quantity of fresh ginger, peeled, about 2 oz.
1 lemon
    juice of one lemon

Salt & Pepper 1:1
   
season to taste
3-4 T "Rooster" Hot Sauce
   
1 T Tuong ot Sriracha
Rub the chicken with the homemade sauce and set prior to cooking.  (I left it sitting while I was preparing the chopped vegetables and the rice I served it with.

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How To:

  1. Place a pot or deep pan on medium heat.  Add the vegetable oil
  2. When oil is heated, add the thinly sliced onions.  Stir evenly until golden brown.
  3. Once golden brown, add the sauced chicken.  Add the homemade sauce.  Stir evenly until all the sides of chicken are evenly heated and tough. (I browned the drumettes until a nice dark crust could be seen on the bottom of the pan.)
  4. Once everything is evenly heated, add the tomato paste, bell pepper, curry powder, salt, and pepper.
  5. Stir all ingredients together for about 5-10 minutes to get the spices and juices of the sauce, chicken, and vegetables to mix well together.
  6. Once mixed, add the potatoes and stir for 2-3 minutes.
  7. Finally, add a cup of water and stir evenly.
  8. Slowly simmer, cover, and stir the korma, on low heat until the potatoes are cooked.
  9. Ready to eat.  Yummy.

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Notes: I used a food processor to puree the garlic and ginger which comes together quickly and smells heavenly!  She explained that the garlic paste and ginger paste be mixed in the same quantities, so that’s what I did.  I cut way back on the Rooster Sauce because my husband said he had to be able to eat it and although he does eat spicy food, I could tell that 3-4 T would be too much for both he and my son to handle.  My loss!  I chose a large, deep skillet for this dish to maximize the space on the bottom of the pan and did not cover it at any point in the cooking process.  Spend the extra time to get the onions nice and brown; they add such flavor to this dish.  Don’t overcook the potatoes as leaving them firm, but done adds a good texture — especially with the brown rice I served it with. Using the drumettes most likely cut down on the overall cooking time.  I could see that with using an entire chicken, or larger pieces, that a lid would be necessary and more time to ensure the chicken was done.  I’ll have to try that next time, and there will be a next time.

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The aroma of this dish cooking almost from the start was beyond wonderful.  I truly enjoyed making it, and eating it.  I had more for lunch the next day, and it’s even better because all the flavors have had more time to blend.  I also added more of the Rooster Sauce to bump up the heat.  Totally delicious!

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A bit of research:  As stated in wikipedia, Korma is generally characterized as a mild curry dish that originates from India and is usually made with yogurt or coconut milk. However, I did read a different reference that stated the foods of Northern India and Pakistan are actually influenced by that of Afghanistan, introduced to the area by a sultan sometime in the 900′s.  I am far from being a food historian, so I’m not sure how accurate this information is.  Korma is often made with chicken, beef, or lamb, and a small amount of vegetables such as potato or onion.  To give you an idea of how different the ingredients in Korma can be, I’m including a few different recipes I found as a comparison to this one if you’re interested.

Kofta Challow
Chicken Korma with Aniseed
Special Chicken Korma
Navratan Korma
Vegetable Korma

Or check out a variety of other recipes here.

Seriously Savory Chicken & Dumplings: WCC No 26

The weather here is pushing me to begin thinking about lighter eating.  Okay, so what that really means is eating twice as much of something with half the calories.  Let’s just keep things honest. And the key word  there is thinking which doesn’t exactly burn calories, does it? 

But I know much of the country is still waiting for a sign — any sign — that indicates spring is just around the corner.  With one friend in Michigan reporting more snow, and my mother in New York still feeling the crunch of frost on the ground this morning, I know there are many out there who will still welcome the idea of food that is comforting and delicious.  Food that sends its aroma wafting through the house as you prepare it.  Food that screams from the kitchen, "Order’s UP!" as a steaming bowl of home style deliciousness slides across the counter.

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Chicken and Dumplings?   Mmmmm….How long has it been?

Creamy, savory, warm, comforting, and so very easy to make. 

The recipe I happened on to (um…Google? because I couldn’t find the one I saw in a magazine about a month ago) calls for a rotisserie chicken purchased at your local grocer, but I had the time and know that nothing makes a more flavorful sauce than the brown bits left after frying chicken.

So I considered the rotisserie chicken for about two-and-a-half seconds.

That doesn’t mean you can’t try it, but I’ll bet that my version is much, much better.  There is no way shredded rotisserie chicken added to a sauce made from slightly browned veggies can compete.

So put your own spin on it, but try it.  And make more than you can eat, because it’s great left over as well.  It’s a perfect Sunday dinner that allows for an easy Monday night in the kitchen.

What more could we want?

Everyone, let’s review:  1) It can be made in one pot; 2) it’s total comfort food; and 3) it’s tasty left over. 

Chicken & Dumplings

1 T olive oil
1 medium shallot, chopped
1 lg. carrot, peeled and chopped
1 celery rib, chopped
1 handful fresh snap peas
2 sprigs fresh thyme
salt & pepper to taste
1 c. plus 2 T all purpose flour
3/4 c. chardonnay
1-1/4 c. hot chicken broth
4 chicken thighs (2 lbs.)

2 T flat leafed parsley, chopped
1 T baking powder
1 T chopped chives
1 c. buttermilk
1 lg. egg, beaten

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In a Dutch oven or large pot that you can cover or put a lid on, cook chicken thighs skin side down in 1 T olive oil, browning each side well about 20 minutes total, or until a slice made shows the interior to be done and juice is running clear.  Set thighs on some paper towels to cool.  After cool, peel off and discard skin, and remove chicken from the bone in good sized chunks.  Reserve.

Pour off all but 1 T. of fat, leaving browned pieces in the pan.  Add the shallots, carrots, and celery and cook over medium heat, stirring occasionally until beginning to brown.  Add the snap peas and sprigs of thyme, stirring a few times to mix well.  Add salt & pepper.

Add 2 T of flour over the veggies, sprinkling over all.  Turn the heat to med. high and cook, stirring to make sure the flour cooks and begins to brown — about 2-3 minutes.  The bottom of the pan should have a very nice rich brown crust by now.  Stir in the wine, scraping the brown from the bottom of the pan. 

Add the hot chicken broth 1/2 c. at a time to keep the liquid in the pan simmering.  The sauce in the pan should thicken and begin to bubble before adding more chicken broth.   After all the broth has been added, add the chicken chunks and mix well.  Check seasoning.

Mix 1 c. flour in a bowl with baking powder, chives, and 1/2 tsp. salt.  Mix buttermilk and egg together before gently adding them to the dry ingredients, stirring only until just mixed.  Using a large spoon, drop dollops of the dough directly onto the simmering chicken stew spacing them evenly in the pan.  They won’t need to touch one another.

Place a lid on the pan and cook over med. low heat without peeking about 12 minutes or until dumplings are puffy and cooked.  If necessary, continue to cook with the lid removed for 3-5 minutes longer.

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Serve by scooping out a dumpling with the chicken stew beneath it and settle it into a bowl.  Sprinkle on some parsley and dig in.

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OH!  I almost forgot!  This is my official entry to WCC#26:  Pressure Cooker, Dutch Oven, Crockpot hosted by none other than Her Most Illustrious Highnessest Empressness, Lis of La Mia Cucina who needs to ditch Ohio and move to the land of palm trees, sea gulls, and reach out and touch your neighbor houses so we can cook, eat, talk, eat some more, and then cook, and maybe then talk about cooking and eating.

What are you waiting for, Lis?  Jeeze, already.

Um…and it NOW occurs to me that I adapted this recipe from a source other than a cookbook.  *sigh*

Am I fired now?

I’d fire me.  There is a cookbook where Food & Wine compiles each year’s recipes.  But I don’t own it.  And this particular recipe was only available on line.  Whattadork.

But this is the earliest I’ve EVER submitted anything for a food event before.  Do I get points for that?

Okay.  Whatever.

But try the Chicken & Dumplings.  Left-Overs, anyone?  YUM.  Look at it all nestled in the loaf pan ready to go into the microslave the next day for my hunkster who totally licked the pan.  I’m telling you…it’s good.

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One Pot Meal: Crab & Andouille Jambalaya

I know I’ve made this point before, but I’ve really been thinking about it quite a bit lately:  we never have the same thing for dinner more than once a month — and sometimes in more than a month.  It isn’t because anyone demands it.  If that was the case, the chief cook and dishwasher would put on a sign stating she was on strike and walk around outside our house just when everyone was coming home from work.

I think the hunkster knows that, and although he might make a stink just for the entertainment value, I don’t expect to be walking the streets any time soon.

Our dinner menus revolve around two things:  What’s in season, and what’s being featured in my magazines.  And since magazine publishers know what’s in season, the two cancel each other out.  No one complains, but I do wonder why neither of my guys looks at me and requests a taco or a hamburger once in a while.  Or   maybe a good old plate of spaghetti. I’m beginning to feel sorry for them.

So in my routine traipsing through Food & Wine, I tagged a one-pot meal I knew would come in handy.  I’d either not want to make a mess of the kitchen which does seem to be in that perpetual state these days, or I’d need something quick.  How can anyone go wrong with either of those criteria?

"Crab and Andouille Jambalaya" made its debut last week on a night when the hunkster wasn’t going to be home until 8PM and my son, who is in the dungeon over some missing school assignments and banned from the computer, accepted my request to join me in making dinner.  He actually looked relieved to have something to do which was great for me because I always feel badly for him after I lower the boom in those circumstances.  I’m a push over.
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And what a coincidence that his budding cooking skills could allow me to submit the dish to Meeta of What’s for Lunch, Honey? and Monthly Mingle’s "One Dish Dinners" which is due today, and isn’t that quite the surprise.  I did create a very detailed Food Event calendar this past weekend that I have sworn allegiance to, so we’ll see if this improves my procrastinating.  Bets anyone?  I didn’t think so.

The dish just happened to be the first meal to grace my brand spanking new Mario Batalli lasagna pan.  Everything went right in it according to the recipe and worked out just fine. I made sure to read the directions since I wasn’t completely sure it would work well on the stove top, but as long as the heat stayed at medium to medium high, everything worked out well.

I prepped all ingredients for my son, handed him the recipe, and made myself available for his questions.  I did make some alterations to the recipe for the purposes of our taste preferences and some color.  The original recipe is linked below.

Crab and Andouille Jambalaya

1/4 c. extra-virgin olive oil
12 oz. andouille sausage cut in half lengthwise, then into 1" pieces
1 lg. onion chopped
1 green pepper, seeded and chopped
1 celery stalk, chopped
1 tsp. Old Bay seasoning
1-1/4 c. brown jasmine rice (9 oz.)
1-1/2 c. chicken stock
1-1/2 c. water
1 thyme sprig
salt and pepper to taste
3 chopped roma tomatoes
1/2 lb. lump crabmeat
3 scallions, chopped
red pepper flakes

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In an enameled cast-iron casserole, heat the olive oil and add the sausage, cooking over medium-high heat until lightly browned.  Scoop into a bowl.

Add the onion, bell pepper, celery and garlic to the casserole, cover and cook over medium high heat until softened, stirring occasionally.  Add the Old Bay, rice and reserved sausage, cooking until the rice is opaque, about 5 minutes.  Add the stock, water and thyme, and season lightly, before bringing to a boil.  Cover (I used a jelly roll pan…) and cook over very low heat until rice is tender and liquid absorbed — longer than the 15 minutes the recipe states.  Just before all the liquid is absorbed, add the tomatoes and stir. 

Add the crab and scallions and fluff with a fork, covering again to let the crab get hot, about 3 minutes.

Serve with a sprinkle of red pepper flakes.

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Notes:  The brown jasmine rice can be found at Trader Joe’s.  It’s most likely the reason the jambalaya took longer than 15 minutes to absorb the liquid, but we like brown rice, so it was worth the extra 10 minutes.  I added tomatoes for a bit of extra flavor and moisture because I enjoy their flavor with onions, peppers, and celery.  This is not a particularly inexpensive meal in spite of its relative ease to fix.  The lump crabmeat was about $9 and the andouille about $5.  I’m thinking that the suggestion of kielbasa is a great one, and adding shrimp instead of the crab would be great.  Old Bay is a seasoning I happen to keep in my pantry for these infrequent opportunities. It is used in crab and shrimp dishes and includes celery salt, bay leaves, and mustard seed among other spices.

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If you’ve never had jambalaya, try this, and then try one of the many other varieties.  I’ve long since lost my first jambalaya recipe, but this one comes about as close as I’ve seen.  The chicken, sausage, and shrimp are amazing together.  I didn’t make mine in a crock-pot because I didn’t own one!