I suppose you could convince me there is a dessert that typifies summer more than shortcake, and you might be able to string me along for a while before I came to my senses to explain delicately that, at least to me,  not much else can compete.

My shortcake memories go back years, but they always begin the same:  with a biscuit.  Not a slice of angel food cake, or pound cake.  A lowly biscuit.  One that, if you’re me,  would normally be found on a plate filled with beans, rice, and coleslaw.  That kind of biscuit.  The one that not much else can compare to when it comes to soaking up juice and binding everything together, whether it’s dessert or not.

Sure, I’ve tried a variety of recipes, combinations of flavors and ingredients, but in the end I’m only truly satisfied with that slightly salty bite of biscuit and the tart sweetness of fresh berries tempered by the richness of cream.  It’s fabulous.

Recently, my husband surprised me with Thomas Keller’s latest book, ad hoc at home.  He’d heard that the man himself would be visiting a local Williams-Sonoma so decided to wait on his lunch hour in a rather lengthy line to get Keller’s signature for me.  Not only was I touched by the gesture, I couldn’t wait to dig into the recipes.

You know what it’s like to get a new cookbook.  You leaf through the pages, savoring each possibility, wondering what might measure up to your expectations without killing yourself on the first attempt:  buttermilk fried chicken…rubbed and glazed pork spareribs…iceberg lettuce slices…No, it was the buttermilk biscuits that got my attention first.  I have to admit I did go back to the iceberg lettuce slices (you have to try his Blue Cheese Dressing), but the biscuits are what I first settled down to make knowing instantly they were destined for berry shortcakes.

Think about it.  They’re perfect for the picnic of all summer picnics — July 4th.  You make them the day before, cool them completely before sealing their crispy freshness away so you can split them and then dollop on some cream and berries that have had a chance to sit for a while to develop a lovely, syrupy juice.

There is an art to this if you want to take some time with it, and if you’d like to consider another ingredient you may never have tried before which is perfect with berries, try mascarpone.  I’m partial to mascarpone, so when I saw that Keller included it in a recipe for peaches and cream, I had to try it giving it my own spin, of course.

If you’re thinking that it may not travel well, think again.  With a few recycled jars filled and kept in an ice chest, you’ll be able to turn out the perfect summer dessert for your July 4th holiday, courtesy of inspiration from Thomas Keller, of course.

Mixed Berry Shortcake with Lemon Mascarpone Cream

For the biscuits…
2 c. cake flour
2 c. all-purpose flour
1 t + 1 tsp. kosher salt
1 T baking powder
1 tsp. baking soda
1/2 lb. unsalted butter, cut into small cubes and chilled
1-1/2 c. buttermilk
2 T unsalted butter, melted

Preheat oven to 425 degrees F.

Whisk the dry ingredients in a large bowl.  Add the chilled cubes of butter and with your fingers, “pinch” them into the dry ingredients until the mixture resembles a coarse meal with chunks no larger than the size of small peas.  Add the buttermilk and with a wooden spoon, gently stir and “lift” the mixture, slowly working in the flour until all dry ingredients are dampened.  The mixture will be quite wet.

On a surface lightly dusted with flour, pour out the dough and with flour dusted hands, pat out a 3/4″ loose rectangle.  Dust a glass or biscuit cutter with flour and press into the dough, removing each piece onto a parchment-lined baking sheet.  Gather the bits and pieces together gently and press to repeat the process until all the dough is used.

Lightly brush the dough cutouts with buttermilk and bake for at least 15 minutes or until biscuits are a golden brown in color.  Remove the biscuits when done to a rack to cool completely.

For the lemon mascarpone cream…

4 lg. eggs, separated
1/2 c. sugar
1/2 c. mascarpone or cream cheese, room temp.
1 c. heavy cream
1 tsp. lemon zest
1 tsp. fresh lemon juice

With a standing mixer, whip the egg whites until they are foamy.  Add half the sugar gradually with the motor running until stiff, glossy peaks form.  Scrape out into a bowl and reserve.

In the same mixer bowl, add the egg yolks and the remaining sugar and whip until the mixture is very pale and thick.  Whip in the mascarpone until well blended and scrape into a large bowl to reserve.

Clean the mixing bowl and whip well, and pour in the heavy cream.  Whip until soft, medium peaks form.  Add the lemon zest and juice and mix. Add this creamy mixture to the egg yolk mixture by thirds, carefully mixing to lighten it before the next third is added.  Add the whites a third at a time, folding carefully so as not to deflate them.  When all are incorporated, cover with plastic wrap and chill for at least 2 hours, or overnight if possible.

For the berries…

6 oz. blackberries
6 oz. blueberries
8 oz. strawberries
2 T raw sugar
balsamic vinegar

Hull the strawberries and quarter them.  Add the blueberries and blackberries to a large bowl and mix with the strawberries.  Sprinkle over 2 T raw sugar and gently toss.  Splash with balsamic vinegar if desired and cover, allowing to sit at room temperature for at least 30 minutes before serving.

To serve, split a biscuit, dollop on a large spoon of lemon mascarpone cream, then pour over the berries and juice.  Cap the dessert with a biscuit top and serve.

Notes:

• This recipe was inspired by Thomas Keller’s ad hoc recipes.
• I loved these biscuits.  Keller makes them in a food processor, but I’m so used to just pinching the butter between my fingers, I didn’t bother to get out my Cuisinart.
• The key to the butter is to cut it into small squares and briefly freeze them.  The butter needs to stay as cold as possible when mixing.
• These biscuits are salty, and that’s what makes them so good.  Wow.  Definitely brush on the buttermilk before baking.  It makes an amazing crust on the biscuits.
• I guess I should mention if you’ve not already noticed that raw egg goes into this lovely lemony cream mixture, so for those who need notice, there it is.
• Don’t balk on the splash of balsamic vinegar in the berries.  It enhances the flavor perfectly!  If you’re brave enough, add a sprinkle of basil chiffonade and mix it in.  Not only is it beautiful, it’s tasty.
• Truly, decadently light and delicious.
• You might get creative and use small jars to create individual desserts.  The biscuit goes first in the jar then screw on the lid.  When it’s time to serve, the lemon cream and berries can be added.
• If you have to take this dessert on the road, then just pack up the parts in jars and chill well until you need them.

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I love ricotta, but I’ve never had truly fresh ricotta, so I decided to make my own.  It requires very little time, no special equipment, and few ingredients, so I was able to prepare it one evening, then drain it over night for use the next day.  I had no idea what I might make with it once it was finished, but that’s the story of my life right now.  How bad could it be to simply nibble on fresh ricotta sprinkled with sea salt and perhaps a drizzle of fruity extra virgin olive oil?  Of course, sprinkling it over a nice salad could be fabulous as well.  Perfectly simple, right?

Simple seems never to be in my repertoire.

With less than a week until Easter and no real plans for a holiday meal in the works, I decided to look for dessert recipes that included ricotta and almost immediately found quite a few for a traditional Easter Pie, or in some cases, Pasteria.  It’s like a cheesecake, but it’s made with ricotta and grain.  Although the grain is most often wheat, some recipes use rice.  Others are made with a crust and latticed top — but some are completely without either — and leave it to me to make one in the least traditional way possible, lacking crust, wheat, and candied fruit.

This small dessert is perfect for spring, or when berries are at their best.

“Pasteria” with Balsamic Strawberries and Basil

For the fresh ricotta…

1 qt. whole milk

1 c. buttermilk

Line a large strainer with 4-5 layers of cheesecloth over the sink (or a bowl if you’re planning on saving the whey).

In a large saucepan over high heat, mix both types of milk, stirring to keep the mixture from scalding.  When steam begins to rise from the mixture, stop stirring.  You should begin to see curds rise from the mixture.  Gently use a spatula to slowly scrape the bottom of the pan to dislodge any curds which may be attached to the bottom.  Check the temperature of the mixture — at 175 degrees F, the curds will completely separate from the whey.

Remove the pan from the heat and using a slotted spoon or wire scoop, gently remove the curds to the prepared strainer and allow to drain.  Allow to cool to room temperature.

For a more moist, creamy ricotta, use immediately.  For a more firm ricotta, gather the ends of the cheesecloth and without squeezing, twist or tie them together.  Tie the bundle to the handle of a wooden spoon and suspend it over a bowl in the fridge over night.

Unwrap and enjoy.

Notes:

• I used raw milk and cultured buttermilk, but you don’t have to.  If you’re interested in the controversy surrounding raw milk, here’s a recent piece in the NYTimes that will catch you up on things.
• Because our lives are hectic at this time of year, I ended up not using the ricotta for 3 days and it was just fine:  firm, but still moist and flavorful.  To store, leave it wrapped in the cheesecloth and place it in a well-sealed container.
• Many thanks to 101 Cookbooks for the inspiration and homemade ricotta recipe from which mine was adapted.

For the “Pasteria”…

11 oz. low fat milk

1/4 c. arborio rice

1/4 tsp. cardamom

pinch of salt

1/2 vanilla bean, split

1/2 c. sugar

12 oz. fresh ricotta

1 whole egg + 1 yolk

1 tsp. tangerine zest

Heat the milk and stir in the rice, cinnamon, and salt in a small sauce pan.  Scrape the seeds from the vanilla bean and add to the mixture in the pan along with the bean.  Cook over low heat, stirring occasionally, until rice is tender and all the milk is absorbed, approximately 20 minutes.  Stir in 1/4 c. of the sugar and let the mixture cool.

Heat the oven to 350 degrees F.  Using a 6″ cake pan with a removable bottom (or a springform pan), coat with olive oil lightly, and then give a dusting of flour.  Set aside.

In a medium bowl, stir the ricotta, eggs, remaining 1/4 c. sugar, tangerine zest, and cooled rice mixture until well blended.  Pour into the prepared pan and bake until golden on top and the center is nearly set, about 50 minutes.

Cool in the pan for about 10 minutes, then using a sharp knife, score around the edges before releasing it from the pan to cool completely on a rack.  The cake will sink as it cools. If not using immediately, wrap well and refrigerate.

Notes:

• We liked the rice in this.  It has a completely different texture and taste than cheesecake, and is very pleasant.  It’s sweeter than I thought it would be, but not extremely sweet.
• Having tried this now, of course I want to make a more traditional version with wheat and a latticed crust.
• Honestly, I’d never have used the fresh ricotta for this if it hadn’t been in the fridge for a couple of days.  Why bake fresh ricotta?
• If it wasn’t for the balsamic strawberries (see below) this would have been on the mellow side as far as dessert goes.  But I enjoy rice pudding and bread pudding, so I’d categorize it with those.
• For additional versions of Neapolitan Easter Pie,  see Buff Chickpea, or Our Italian Table (whose recipe influenced mine), both of whom have recipes inspired by Martha Stewart’s version.
• For a more traditional version of Pasteria, see this article in the Chicago Tribune.

For the Balsamic Strawberries with Basil…

1/3 c. balsamic vinegar

2 tsp. + 2 T raw sugar or turbinado

1/2 tsp. fresh orange juice

1 pt. fresh strawberries

1/3 c. fresh basil, thinly sliced

In a small sauce pan, stir the vinegar, orange juice, and 2 tsp. of sugar until sugar dissolves.  Bring to a boil over medium high heat and cook until it reduces to about 1/4 cup.  It should be somewhat like a syrup.  Remove from heat and allow to cool.

While cooling, hull the strawberries and quarter them.  Sprinkle the remaining sugar over and toss lightly.  Set aside.

When the syrup has completely cooled, pour over the strawberries, and lightly toss.  Sprinkle in the basil just before serving.

Notes:

• There are varying recipes for balsamic strawberries as with most other recipes, but this one, adapted from an Epicurious recipe, is fabulous.  In fact, if you watch it carefully and the heat is very low, you can reduce the vinegar down to something quite decadent that still works well with the berries and basil.
• The peppery taste of basil with the sweet berries and tang of the balsamic reduction is very satisfying.  If you’re not sure about whether it’s a flavor for you, don’t mix the balsamic into the strawberries.  Just drizzle a bit over.
• To serve the dessert, plate a slice of the pie, top with berries, and spoon a bit of the syrup over.

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I can’t remember the first time I had carrot cake, but I’m sure it wasn’t until I was well into my adult years.  It’s strange now that I think about it because my mother used to make a mean carrot salad.  The basic ingredients aren’t all that different except for the mayonnaise she’d dollop in the huge bowl of grated carrots and raisins before stirring in some sugar, and I’ll bet I can find more than one recipe for carrot cake that calls for mayo, too.  Mind you, this would be much to the complete horror of my husband who steers clear of anything that suggests mayo is an ingredient.

Other than cheesecake or an occasional pineapple upside down cake made in a skillet, my mother’s cakes came from a box, as did mine for years.  Can carrot cake actually be made from a box mix?  Perhaps that’s why I don’t remember ever tasting one.  I could blame it on family members more inclined to request chocolate cake:  chocolate peanut butter, German chocolate, and even a chocolate mint cake that unfortunately reminded more than one of us of toothpaste.  Sadly, there were no requests for carrot cake.

In the years since, I’ve learned that everyone seems to have made carrot cake but me and relies upon a favorite recipe.  I, on the other hand, have only made it twice:  the first time, I used a good friend’s recipe (sans the crushed pineapple she says she never adds) which was delicious;  the second time, I decided to look for a recipe that was made with olive oil.  Most of the recipes I’ve considered use from 3/4 to 1-1/2 cups of oil, so if  oil is going into a cake, why not make it monosaturated?

Perhaps it might soothe concerns about butter, mascarpone and sugar as one bites into this fabulously luscious cake.

Olive Oil Carrot Cake

For the cake batter…

250ml/8-3/4 fl. oz. olive oil
500g/1 lb. + 1 oz. sugar
4 eggs, beaten
250g/8-3/4 oz. all-purpose flour, plus extra for dusting
2 tsp. baking powder
2 tsp. baking soda
2 tsp. ground cinnamon
1 tsp. ground allspice
1 tsp. ground cardamom
1 tsp. salt
125g/4-1/2oz. walnuts, coarsely chopped
250 g./8-3/4 oz. raisins
500g/1 lb.+1 oz. carrots, peeled and grated

For the icing…

125 g./4-1/2 oz. unsalted butter, softened
2 tsp. pure vanilla extract
250 g./8-3/4 oz. mascarpone
250g/8-3/4 oz. powdered sugar

Preheat the oven to 325 F.

Pour olive oil, sugar and eggs in a medium bowl and blend well. Sift flour and remaining dry ingredients into a separate bowl. Add egg and oil mixture and stir until the mixture is uniformly moist. Add the walnuts, carrots, and raisins, stirring until incorporated.

Line two 8-in. cake pans with removable bottoms with baking parchment.  Spray with oil, then lightly dust with flour. Divide cake batter evenly between the two prepared pans and set on a baking sheet. Bake for about 1 hour and 10 minutes, or until a wooden skewer inserted into the center is removed clean.  Allow to cool at least 15 minutes in the pans on a baking rack before removing the layers from the pans to cool completely.
For the icing, mix the softened butter and mascarpone with the vanilla in the bowl of a standing mixer until smooth.  Add powdered sugar gradually, beating on medium speed until smooth and creamy.  Spread each layer with half the icing before stacking layers. Refrigerate until ready to serve.

Notes:

• This is a very dense, moist cake with lots and lots of yummy texture.  A little slice will go a very long way in satisfying a sweet tooth.
• This recipe was adapted from one I found at BBC — Food and it forced me to use my kitchen scale.
• With a bit more than a cup of oil, this recipe’s quantity is average compared to others I looked at.   Make sure to use a good quality olive oil.
• The center of the cake will sink as it cools.
• Check out the link if you’d like a larger, single layer cake.
• Now, I’m off to find a version that uses applesauce.  I’ve heard that creates a nice, moist carrot cake as well.

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It’s nearly April, and with Spring having done its annual thing, the Acer on my patio is finally beginning to leaf out, I’ve replenished my sadly neglected herb box, and it seems everything is in riotous bloom.  The season has had a positive effect on me as well, because I actually completed a Daring Bakers Challenge within respectable time of its March 27 reveal date.  Will wonders never cease?

The 2010 March Daring Baker’s challenge was hosted by Jennifer of Chocolate Shavings. She chose Orange Tian as the challenge for this month, a dessert based on a recipe from Alain Ducasse’s Cooking School in Paris.  Oh the possibilities for this particular challenge.

If you’ve not heard of a tian before, it’s a layered dessert comprised of a pate sablee, marmalade, flavored whipped cream and fruit — and in the case of this month’s challenge — oranges.  Living in the Golden State, or Southern California in particular, citrus is plentiful.  At this time of year, there are  lemons, Meyer lemons, Persian limes, key limes, pink grapefruit, yellow grapefruit, cara oranges (they’re pink inside), Valencia oranges, blood oranges, and Cuties.

Cuties are California mandarins.  They’re tiny, compact orbs of sweet, segmented deliciousness — especially if you want something for a healthy snack.  And since they were on sale at Henry’s, I decided they’d become the base of my dessert.  Thanks very much to Jennifer for this challenge.  A tian is a dessert that can be made ahead of time in parts, then assembled right before you’d like to enjoy it.

Wait — have you ever made marmalade?

Ah, well.  Therein lies the rub.

Cutie Marmalade Tian with Blood Oranges and Cara Orange Caramel Sauce

For the Pate Sablee:

2 lg. egg yolks at room temperature
6 T + 1 tsp sugar  (2.8 oz; 80 g.)
1/2 tsp. vanilla
1/4 c. unsalted butter, ice cold, cubed
1/4 tsp. kosher salt
1-1/2 c. + 2 T all-purpose flour  (7 oz; 200 g.)
1 tsp. baking powder

Put the flour, baking powder, ice cold cubed butter and salt in a food processor fitted with a steel blade.

In a separate bowl, add the eggs yolks, vanilla extract and sugar and beat with a whisk until the mixture is pale. Pour the egg mixture into the food processor.

Process until the dough just comes together. If you find that the dough is still a little too crumbly to come together, add a couple drops of water and process again to form a homogenous ball of dough. Form into a disc, cover with plastic wrap and leave to rest in the fridge for 30 minutes.

Preheat your oven to 350 degree F.

Roll out the dough onto a lightly floured surface until you obtain a 1/4- in. thick circle.

Using a 6″ round, cut out circles of dough and place on a parchment (or silicone) lined baking sheet. Reserve the scraps for another use.  Bake the disk for 20 minutes or until the circle of dough is just golden.  Allow to cool completely.

For the Marmalade:

2 lbs. mandarins
1 meyer lemon
5 c. water
2 Madagascar vanilla beans, split and cut in half crosswise
3-1/2 c. sugar

Cut citrus crosswise into 1/4-in.-thick slices. Remove any seeds.   Transfer fruit to a large bowl or pot and add 5 c. water making sure fruit is covered. Cover with plastic wrap and allow to stand at room temperature 1 day. Transfer fruit mixture to heavy large pot. Scrape seeds from vanilla beans into pot and add beans. Bring mixture to boil. Reduce heat and simmer until citrus rind is tender and fruit falls from rind.  Stirring occasionally, cook about 1 hour and 15 minutes.

Remove from heat. Add sugar, stirring gently until sugar dissolves. Return to heat and boil gently until mixture is 210°F, stirring occasionally, about 1 hour and 20 minutes.

Allow to cool to room temperature before pouring into jars. Cover tightly and refrigerate up to 2 months.

For the Orange Segments:

4 blood oranges, peeled, pith removed

Cut oranges into segments over large plate, making sure to reserve juice. Add segments to the plate along with the juice.

For the Caramel:

1 c. sugar (7 oz; 200 g.)
1-1/2 c. + 2 T freshly squeezed orange juice (14 oz; 400 g.)

Pour sugar in a pan on medium heat and begin heating it.

Once the sugar starts to bubble and foam, slowly add the orange juice. As soon as the mixture starts boiling, remove from the heat and pour half of the mixture over the orange segments.

Reserve the other half of the caramel mixture in a small bowl — you will use this later to spoon over the finished dessert. When the dessert is assembled and setting in the freezer, heat the kept caramel sauce in a small saucepan over low heat until it thickens and just coats the back of a spoon (about 10 minutes). You can then spoon it over the orange tians.

For the Whipped Cream:
1 c. whipping cream (7 oz; 200 g.)
3 T  hot water
1 tsp. gelatine
1 T  powdered sugar
1 T marmalade (see recipe above)

2 pinches ground allspice

In a small bowl, add gelatine and hot water, stirring well until the gelatine dissolves. Let gelatine cool to room temp.

Combine cream in a chilled bowl. Whip cream on low speed until cream starts to thicken, about one minute. Add powdered sugar. Increase speed to medium-high. Whip cream until beaters leave visible (but not lasting) trails in the cream, then add cooled gelatine slowly while beating continuously. Continue whipping until cream is light and fluffy and soft peaks form. Transfer whipped cream to a bowl and fold in marmalade.

Assembling the Dessert:

Make sure you have some room in your freezer. Ideally, you should be able to fit a small baking sheet or tray of desserts to set in the freezer.

Line a small tray or baking sheet with parchment paper or a silicone sheet. Lay out 6 cookie cutters onto the parchment paper/silicone.

Drain the orange segments on a kitchen towel.

Have the marmalade, whipped cream and baked circles of dough ready to use.

Line the 6-inch cake pan with removable bottom with plastic wrap.  Arrange the orange segments at the bottom of the pan. Make sure the segments all touch either and that there are no gaps. Make sure they fit snuggly and look pretty as they will end up being the top of the dessert. Arrange them as you would sliced apples when making an apple tart.

Once you have neatly arranged one layer of orange segments at the bottom of the cake pan, add the whipped cream and gently spread it so that it fills the pan in an even layer over the oranges.

Using an offset spatula or small spoon, spread a small even layer of marmalade carefully over the cream layer.  Trim the plastic wrap so no excess is showing.

Carefully place the circle of dough (cookie) over the marmalade layer. If necessary, trim cookie disk with kitchen scissors to fit the pan.  Gently press on the circle of dough to make sure the dessert is compact.

Place the desserts to set in the freezer to set for 15-20 minutes.

Unmold the dessert by pressing upward on the bottom of the pan to remove the layered dessert.  Place a plate over the top and invert.  Remove the bottom of the pan and the plastic wrap.  You should see a beautiful layer of orange segments.

To serve, slice, taking care to cut through the cookie layer, and spoon over some caramel orange sauce.

Challenge Notes:

Variations allowed:
• You can choose to serve the dessert ‘family-style’ and don’t have to make it in individual portions
• You can use your favorite “Pate Sablee” recipe if you have one, but it must be a pate sablee
• You can add any additional flavoring to your whipped cream
• You can play with different citrus in this dessert (grapefruit, blood orange, lemon) at any step in the recipe.
However, you must make the tart dough, the whipped cream, the caramel sauce, citrus segments and marmalade.

Preparation time:
- Pate Sablee: 20 minutes to make, 30 minutes to rest, 15 minutes to roll out, 20 minutes to bake
- Marmalade: Overnight soaking, 2+ hours cooking time, cooling and refrigeration time
- Orange segments: 20 minutes, overnight to sit
- Caramel: 15 minutes, overnight to sit
- Whipped Cream: 15 minutes
- Assembling: 20 minutes
- Freezer to Set: 15-20 minutes

Equipment required:
• 6″ cake pan with a removable bottom.
• A food processor (although the dough could be made by hand too)
• A stand-up or hand mixer
• Parchment paper or a silicone sheet
• A baking sheet
• A rolling pin

Kelly’s Notes:

• The cookie dough is quite interesting.  It’s very firm, and even when chilled, is a bit dense.  Don’t let it get the best of you.  Patch up the “cracks” and carry on.  You can make this, let it cool, and then wrap it well and save it for a couple of days if you need to.
• The marmalade recipe I used with the vanilla beans is completely divine.  It’s from Epicurious.  The aroma is amazing, and the flavor even better.  Forget about that tart marmalade you might be thinking of.  This is sweet, and dying for you to slather on a scone or biscuit.  Truly.  It is a bit wet, however.  Let it sit, cool, then refrigerate.  It will be fine.  Share it with your friends, or keep it all for yourself.  Dig in with a big spoon when no one is looking, but don’t forget to wipe your face.
• The stabilized cream is a must for this.  If you decide to scratch the gelatine in this, you’ll be sorry. Deal with it.  And while you’re at it, have fun with some flavorings.  I thought about cardamom, but went with allspice since someone gave me some lovely allspice berries and I have a brand new spice grinder.  Thanks, Cora!  If you’re bold, you might even go with herbs here.  Thyme would be so nice, but only a tiny bit.  Put it in the gelatine mixture with the hot water.
• Some of the original directions were a bit confusing to me.  Chalk it up to my lack of attention, but when you make the caramel, you’ll probably need a completely separate supply of orange juice.  I did.  But I also considered draining the juice of the segments I’d allowed to sit overnight.  I think that’s the better idea because my caramel was a bit thin.  I should have drained the segments and used that juice to add to the hot sugar.  I know — hind sight.
• The plastic wrap worked perfectly.  The dessert unmolded just right.  If you very, very lightly spray the cake pan with oil, it should work as well.
• I’m sure there are more notes, but dang I’m glad this is over.

The moral to this challenge is that if you have a good hard cookie, some jam, good fruit, and a sturdy creme (think mascarpone here), you can make a tian.  Oh, those Spring and Summer possibilities!

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In the months before my youngest was born, my mother suggested to my husband and I that she live with us to care for the baby after I returned to work.  We’d been looking for a larger house since my two older boys were on the verge of their teen years, and adding a third child meant room to stretch would be important for us all.  She knew I wasn’t looking forward to leaving the baby with a caregiver, and was growing tired of her own job, the hours it required, and the physical pain it caused her.  My husband is a far more easy going person than I could ever be, so he agreed and we changed the focus of our search to a home with four or five bedrooms instead of three.

We happened on to the perfect house one day by misreading the directions I’d written down.  An open house was just concluding and the realtors were preparing to leave.  We thought it looked perfect from the outside, but as soon as we entered — all heading in different directions — we were convinced.  It had only one owner in its 40 year history and was unique in so many ways.  Tucked into a hillside on a half acre shaped like a slice of pie, it faced east and overlooked the mature trees in the valley.  The back property hadn’t been cared for in years, but was a wealth of possibilities;  apricot, plum, tangerine, orange, grapefruit, loquat, and nut trees filled the space. It was perfect.

The year we moved in, the winter rains were especially heavy.  Slowly, the parched hillside turned green and bulbs planted years before began to push through layers of fallen leaves.  Sprigs of grape vines and berry bushes also appeared.  Saturday mornings before sunrise, the baby would wake earlier than I wanted, but it allowed us both some time alone.  With a bottle in his hands and coffee in one of mine, we’d walk up the hill in the early quiet of the day to see what new surprise we might find, finally growing after so many years of neglect. I loved that house.

Our trees often produced more than we could enjoy, so after freezer jam had been made, berries frozen, juice made, and sweets baked, we’d pack it up and set it down by the street with a “Free” sign.  It rarely took long for passers by to stop and help themselves to the produce, emptying the buckets we’d carry back up the hill to fill again.

Now, I have to depend on the market for most of what we used to give away, but I have learned recently of many organizations involved in gleaning urban fruit for a variety of purposes.  Whether it’s to gather and donate to those in need, or pluck and enjoy to keep it from rotting on the ground, interest in urban fruit foraging is gathering momentum as we all begin to think more responsibly about food.

I was gifted a big bag of Meyer lemons not too long ago, so had to pair them with the blackberries showing up at the market.  The berries will never compare with those we picked on our hill, but until I find them growing wild in San Diego, I’ll have to be tolerant — or do without.

But then, there is this pie…

Meyer Lemon and Blackberry Chiffon Pie

For the crust…
1-3/4 c. Honey Maid graham crackers (about 12 whole)
1/4 c. sugar
1/2 tsp. kosher salt
1 tsp. minced crystallized ginger
1/2 c. unsalted butter, melted

Preheat oven to 350º F. In a large mixing bowl combine graham crumbs, sugar, salt, and minced ginger. Add butter and stir until mixture is evenly moistened.

Transfer crumb mixture to an 8″ x 2″ fluted tart pan with a removable bottom, and press crumbs firmly and evenly onto bottom and up sides to top of dish. Set on a baking sheet and bake about 15 minutes or until crust is firm and slightly darker in color. Allow to cool completely on a baking rack at room temperature.

When completely cool, spread blackberry jam (see below) over the bottom of the crust.  Add a layer of fresh blackberries over the jam and set aside.

For the filling…
3/4 c. strained fresh lemon juice
3/4 c. plus 2 tablespoons sugar
4 large egg yolks
2 tsp. finely grated lemon peel
1/8 tsp. salt
1/4 c. water
1 envelope unflavored gelatin
1-1/4 c. chilled whipping cream
1/4 c. powdered sugar
2 c. ice cubes (or more as needed)

For the blackberry layer…
1/3 c. seedless blackberry jam
10 oz. fresh blackberries

Combine water and gelatin in a small bowl and allow to soften, about 15 minutes. In a medium sauce pan, add cold water and ice cubes to fill half way and set aside.

In a small saucepan mix sugar, lemon juice, egg yolks, grated peel and salt over medium heat. Whisk constantly until mixture thickens (mixture should mound like curd) and thermometer registers 175º F, about 8 minutes. Remove from heat and add gelatin mixture, stirring until smooth.

Place saucepan in ice bath, stirring occasionally and refilling ice as needed until filling is cool to touch, about 10 minutes. Scrape into a large bowl.

In a separate bowl, whip cream until soft peaks form, add sugar, and continue to whip until firm peaks form. Fold 1/4 whipped cream into lemon mixture until combined. Fold in remaining cream in 3 amounts.

Pour lemon filling over the blackberry layer, mounding slightly in center. Chill until set, about 4 hours, or overnight.

Notes:

• This pie is plain delicious, not complicated to make, and can be made a day ahead.  What more could you ask for?
• The original recipe does not include the blackberry layer.
• I saw the original recipe in two places with only one crediting Chef John Folse (who has an amazing number of recipes I plan to drool over in the next few days).
• I used a graham cracker crust recipe I’ve tried before in my Key Lime Cheesecake instead of the gingersnaps called for in the original recipe and added the crystallized ginger.  Honestly, I don’t think I could taste the ginger.
• Lemon and blackberry compliment one another perfectly, but what doesn’t go well with lemon?  Raspberries, blueberries, and strawberries are all tasty and would work in this pie.  Or, you could use a mixture.
• I reduced the amount of lemon zest because the amount of lemon juice in this recipe is substantial.  The result is excellent, so I can only imagine that three times the zest would make an extremely tart pie.  Maybe.
• The crust is fabulous with this.  It’s crunchy and holds up against the filling perfectly.  No soggy crust at all!
• It stores in the fridge just fine with no covering.
• Have too many lemons?  Remove the zest and freeze it for later.  Squeeze the juice from the lemons, measure 1 T of juice and pour each into the container of a plastic ice cube tray.  When they’re frozen, pop them into baggies to store.
• Avoid storing your citrus with apples.  It will ripen and mold very quickly!

Urban Foraging, Gleaning, and Giving:

• Neighborhood Fruit — Nationwide organization that connects people who want to find and/or share fruit, as well as forage for fruit growing on public property
• Ample Harvest — Organization that helps gardeners with surplus fruit and vegetables donate to those in need.
• Village Harvest — Organization that promotes sustainable use of urban resources by organizing backyard fruit harvesting for donation to the needy as well as provide education about fruit tree care, harvesting, and preservation.  Great backyard orchard resources.
• The Fruit Tree Planting Foundation — FTPF plants edible fruit trees world wide to benefit the environment and its inhabitants
• Fallen Fruit — Los Angeles organization that works to redevelop the idea of community and the relationship between those who have resources and those who don’t
• Veggie Trader — An organization working to put backyard produce to work for the community, the environment, and those in need

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This past Christmas, my husband’s sister had the idea to surprise their parents with a trip to England.  For as long as I’ve known my dear father-in-law, he’s wanted to travel there, so it took little effort to consider cashing in our points, and settling in to plan.  It’s been several years since our first trip there, and it remains the only place where I’ve vacationed that I didn’t want to leave.  Although we barely saw London that trip, we did manage to cover about 750 miles driving through Devonshire, Wales, and the Cotswolds.  My husband’s white-knuckled grip never completely adjusted to the need to drive on the opposite side of the road, but we did find maneuvering the roundabouts hilarious after a time, rarely missing a turn off when one was called for.  Although it was equally terrifying to be the navigator on the trip at times, I was more likely to enjoy endless views of rolling green hills and quaint villages, each more picturesque than the last.

As much as we think of scones being breakfast fare here, we only had them once on our trip, and not for breakfast.  We happened into a small restaurant just before closing time in Harlech, Wales, after a day of sightseeing and castle exploration.  We had some tiny scones and other treats with the cream tea the staff was kind enough to serve even though they’d clearly finished for the day.  It was a perfect break considering we’d come from Conwy, in Northern Wales,  early that morning, and were headed to Milebrook House near Knighton on the English border, about 100 km away.  It’s funny to think about now, and I refer to it as Mr. Toad’s Wild Ride, but it wasn’t humorous at the time.

Hopefully, the trip I’m planning this time won’t be as hectic.  It should help to have a spry, natty octogenarian with us.

Blueberry Lemon Scones

2/3 c. buttermilk

1 lg. egg

3 c. flour

4 tsp. baking powder

1/2 tsp. baking soda

1/2 tsp. salt

8 T cold, unsalted butter, cut into small pieces

1 c. fresh blueberries

1/2 sugar

1 tsp. grated lemon zest

Preheat oven to 375 degrees F.  Measure the buttermilk, then add the egg and beat well.  In a large bowl, pour the flour, baking powder and soda, and salt.  Whisk to mix well.  Add the cold butter pieces and using your hands, “pinch” the butter through the dry mixture thoroughly until it’s grainy-looking.  Add the blueberries, sugar, and lemon zest using a fork to lightly mix before pouring in the buttermilk mixture.  Toss lightly with the fork, working to dampen all of the dry ingredients without over mixing.  Pour the dough onto a lightly floured counter and with your hands, gather it into a smooth mass.  Make a large ball, flatten it a bit, then divide into 8 pieces.  Gently press each piece into a ball and set on a silicone or parchment lined baking sheet.  Bake for about 35 minutes or until richly brown.  Brush with some butter and sprinkle each with sugar if desired.  Allow to cool about 20 minutes before serving.

Notes:

• This is a more solid dough for scones than what I’m used to working with.  The idea of making a ball of dough is a bit odd, but it works quite well.  I used fresh blueberries, and surprisingly, very few of them were smashed with the handling.  Frozen blueberries would work just fine as well.  Don’t thaw them out — just add them frozen.
• I used meyer lemons for this — they’re sweeter than regular lemons and I was lucky enough to have a few I’d been given.  It always helps to know someone with a lemon tree!
• As much as fresh scones hot from the oven sound, let these sit — even longer than the 20 minutes I did.  They’re very light in texture and although very tasty, fairly delicate.
• We tried some with the melted butter and sugar, and some without.  The added calories aren’t necessary at all.  They’re flavorful enough without either.
• This recipe can be made with plain yogurt or powdered buttermilk as well if you don’t have fresh buttermilk.
• Adapted from Biscuits and Scones by Elizabeth Alston
• The blue plate is old.  The stamp on the back reads:  “Enoch Wood’s English Scenery, Woods Ware, Wood & Sons, England” and is circa 1917.  It’s transferware — pretty if you’re like me and collect blue English dishes, but not especially valuable.

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