Lamb Shanks Braised with Tomatoes and Herbs

Easter in Key West Florida 1963

Spices for Rub

Spring for many who crave slow roasted savory dishes can mean that it’s time for lamb — especially when there’s a special occasion to consider such as Easter.  For my family, however, this wasn’t the case.  Our tradition was far from a special dinner at home and a table set with my great grandmother’s china.  No, we were the more adventuresome type.

If my mother was successful in her relentless attempts to get my father out of bed, we’d try and make it to early service.  My mother was an amazing seamstress, so picture three perfectly dressed children (the girls in matching dresses, of course) with brand new shoes, Easter hats, and not a hair out of place, all waiting for the man of the house to get up so their day could begin. There was more than one reason to make that early service.  Father K. did the mass first on Sunday, and he was quite efficient, so rarely did the service last even an hour.  If we didn’t make the first service, then we would attend Father B’s mass which inevitably took much, much longer.  That service was always packed, too, so often we ended up sitting in the back or upstairs, and with no padded rails to kneel on.

First thing in the morning, we’d see the Easter baskets placed at the end of our beds full of candy and goodies, the best of which was usually a large chocolate foil wrapped bunny.  Each basket had exactly the same contents, because my little sister kept track and usually let my mother know it was a problem.  These baskets of goodies came in handy for what was usually a long drive after church, searching for the perfect spot to have our annual Easter picnic.  Every year the group was a bit different, but every year, we were on the road, picnic food wrapped and ready to eat sometime after the giant egg hunt.  We hunted real eggs — eggs that we’d colored ourselves, and then after finding them would end up as deviled eggs.

But lamb was nowhere to be found on the menu for that occasion.  So it wasn’t until well into adulthood that I finally tasted lamb.  Although I still don’t serve lamb as much as I do other meats, I am learning more about which cut to prepare, how to prepare it and with which flavors.

When I saw the meaty lamb shanks at our local Henry’s, I wasn’t looking for them, but had to have them knowing I’d put them to good use.  It didn’t take long to find the perfect recipe.  Absolutely perfect.

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Shepherd’s Pie with Beef, Pork and Lamb

It's raining here today, so I'm as subdued as the grey skies.  After two mornings of very early morning walks as I attempt to get back into the "I, too, can be fit!" swing of things, I'm content to sit in the quiet sipping my coffee.  Thoughts come and go but hover around memories of our trip to the UK a few years go — the winding roads in Wales, ancient castle ruins tucked between soft green hills, engaging after dinner conversation with local farmers at an old country house, and Pub food.  Cottage Pie
 

Last night, my husband's parents came by for an impromptu celebration in honor of my mother-in-law's birthday, and it seemed perfect to make a shepherd's pie.  I love to cook for them, and for years, they've indulged my culinary whims.  When we get together, inevitably, talk turns to travel, and specifically travel to the UK.  My father-in-law has always wanted to go, and so he graciously indulges us yet another sharing of our time there as we think of ways to get him there before too much longer.  He's 80 now. 

Of course the talk turns to food and a pub we enjoyed in Bath.  I don't remember the name of it because we made several attempts before we found one that would allow us to enter, my husband talking to someone inside while my son and I waited on the street.  Although pubs are more accepting of children than they used to be, not all of them are, and it was mortifying to my son that his presence caused us to have to search.  I felt badly for him knowing I would have been embarrassed as well. Finally we found one, and were led to the back, away from the bar to a small room.  So much for my romantic notions of cozy tables, old plastered walls and a roaring fire, no matter if it was the middle of summer with temperatures so uncharacteristically hot that everyone was talking about it.

Thank goodness for the waiter who indulged my husband with good-natured humor in answering a question about the rules of Cricket. He chided us about ordering "extra cold" beer and served us a meal of Shepherd's Pie that was truly memorable. 

Shepherd's Pie is a traditional English dish made of minced meat — usually lamb — and vegetables, then covered with mashed potatoes before baking.  If the dish contains beef, then it's referred to as a Cottage Pie.  Regardless, it's comfort food at its best, and one that will leave you smiling well into the evening after the plates have been cleared from the table.  You may have to waddle to bed, however, because it's quite filling.

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Braised Lamb Shanks with Couscous & Ricotta Salata

To many, Spring represents a promise of warmth to come, a freshness in the air and longer days that allow for relaxation.  To us, it marks the beginning of the end of the busy season at my husband’s office.  No spring break here.  So what do the two things call for in our house?  Slow Food.

I’ve been reading quite a bit about the Slow Food movement lately, considering that who I am as a cook is what it advocates:

Living the slow life with food as the focus is as rewarding as it is
easy, and it can be done daily by each one of us. Ultimately, it is
about pleasure and taste, knowledge and choice. Once we begin to take
an interest in the enjoyment of food, and in finding out where our food
comes from, we can begin to see the effects of these choices.

I completely agree.

So when I saw the lamb shanks in the case a week ago at the grocery store, I didn’t hesitate to put them in my basket knowing I’d find something wonderful to cook them with.  Something slow and relaxed. Delicious. Comforting.  Something to help soothe my husband’s tummy as he presses on for another month.

And coincidentally, Ben at What’s Cooking? is hosting his second Food for Plastic Challenge with a focus on Springtime faire.  As usual, I’m trying to squeeze in under the wire which is today, but that isn’t because I waited until today to actually cook my dish. It’s been in the works for a few days to celebrate the art of patience, knowing that if I followed the recipe’s suggestion for "make ahead" allowing the lamb shanks to luxuriate in their braising liquid in the fridge for a couple of days, it would send our taste buds singing into foodie heaven.

That’s exactly what happened.
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The recipe for "Braised Lamb Shanks with Trahana Pasta and Ricotta Salata" by executive chef Pano Karatassos was originally published in Food & Wine in 2005 and billed as something "expat chefs eat when they’re homesick."  How could I ignore that recommendation?  Besides, it’s packed with  lovely herbs like thyme, dill, parsley, and chives.  And there is that garlic…

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I followed the recipe linked above with the following changes:

1)  I used 4 shanks and cut the rest of the ingredients in half to feed 4.
2)  Brown the shanks in the pan you expect to braise them in, removing them from that pan while sauteeing  onion, garlic, and thyme in the butter.
3)  Add the shanks back to the pan with the onion mixture before adding stock.
4)  After the cooking time, cool briefly, then place in fridge well-covered for 2 days.
5)  Turn shanks over in the braising liquid before reheating at 375 degrees F for about 30 minutes.
6)  I used a can of Italian style crushed tomatoes instead of pureed tomatoes.
7)  I used the recommended couscous because I had no idea where to get trahana pasta.

Notes:  This was an exceptional dish.  The couscous was very flavorful with the great combination of tomato and lemon juice really standing out.  The cinnamon flavor added a nice touch without being pronounced, although my son noticed and couldn’t quite identify the spice.

The lamb is exceptionally tender and comes off the bone easily –  moist and rich in flavor.  Very satisfying.

This is the third lamb recipe I’ve made in less than a year, and for someone who grew up not ever having had lamb, I can say that it just keeps getting better and better.

Simply fabulous!

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Rosemary Dijon Roasted Rack of Lamb

Although I’ve ventured out quite a bit as a cook from the food I was raised on, there are still some things I steer clear of.  I’m not sure what causes it, because I am a semi-adventuresome foodie (nothing like Anthony Bourdain, of course…) and enjoy trying new types of cuisine.  But I wouldn’t exactly call lamb cuisine.  It’s meat.  Plain and simple.  And in my life I believe I’ve only eaten it once or twice — not exactly looking forward to either of those occasions. Even though on each of those occasions, the dinner was very good, I still found myself avoiding lamb for absolutely no valid reason.

So when I was cruising through the grocery store and spotted the perfect little Frenched rack of lamb, I decided to try it.  I didn’t know what I was going to do with it, but I’d seen so many recipes for lamb recently, I knew it wouldn’t be too difficult to find something.  And I was right.  But it wasn’t one of the magazine recipes I’d expected to make.  I’d waited too long one day to decide what to make for dinner, and so conducted a quick Google search to peruse my procrastinator’s options.

I’m quite surprised to say, that not only was this recipe excellent, my attitude about lamb has changed.  Go figure.  Tender, juicy, and very flavorful.  Plus, it was a very quick and lovely meal — definitely on the fancy side of things that I would serve at a special dinner in a second because it presents extremely well, and it would allow me to spend more time on a dessert.

The recipe I used for Roasted Rack of Lamb can be found here.  I don’t usually find myself looking at this site since I have so many magazines and usually depend on Epicurious, but this recipe has be reconsidering my habits!

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Notes: To make the fresh bread crumbs, I used an egg bun I had for hamburgers that was a bit stale.  I used 2 large and 3 small cloves of garlic.  In the finishing stages of cooking in the oven, I took the rack out at 15 minutes as the herb crust was beginning to get very brown.  But no worries.  I’m a medium rare kind of person, so this was cooked perfectly to me.

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We enjoyed it with orzo in a bit of olive oil and garlic.

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And my Greek style salad with micro greens added.